Rome with Points – 28 Days in Europe for $6,700

Planning a Family Trip to Europe on Points

This past summer, we decided to take our family of four to Europe, making the decision just a month before departure. Finding last-minute availability for two adults, a six-year-old, and a lap infant can be challenging. The only business class tickets I could find were available just two weeks before our planned departure. Unfortunately, my wife couldn’t get the extra time off, so I decided to take my daughter to Italy for two weeks and then have my wife and son join us in Greece.

Booking Business Class with Amex and Avios

I transferred 98,000 Amex points to British Airways and then used the combine Avios feature to move them to Iberia Airline. I booked two business class tickets to Rome for 49,000 points each with a connection in Madrid. My daughter and I spent a week in Rome, then headed to Venice and Murano the following week. We met my wife and infant son in Greece, traveled to Germany for a wedding, and finished our trip in France to visit family.

The Journey Begins: Flying Iberia Business Class

Lounge Access at DFW: AA Flagship and Amex Centurion We started by leaving for the Dallas Fort Worth Airport (DFW) at 8:50 PM. Since we were flying international business class, we took advantage of the lounge. We chose the AA Flagship Lounge, as you can access any OneWorld lounge when flying international business class. Terminal D at DFW also has an Amex Centurion Lounge. I feasted on carrots and champagne, while my daughter chose the healthier option. She had chicken, carrots, veggie salad, tofu, and all the sweets I would allow her to eat.

After spending about an hour in the lounge, we headed to our gate five minutes before boarding. Everything moved quickly, and they had us on the plane in no time.

Business Class Seat Selection: Best Options for Privacy These were the type of seats we had from DFW to Rome. This was the seat next to me.  You want to avoid the aisle seats on this flight because they offer little privacy. Here you would be right in the aisle, flight attendants and passengers could bump into you while you’re sleeping. Instead, I recommend opting for a window or middle seats. In-Flight Experience: Comfort, Entertainment, and Amenities We had a very good flight experience. The staff was friendly, the seats were clean, and everything worked well. Iberia isn’t known for having the best business class seats, but it certainly beats economy!

The seats are very comfortable; they lie flat and have a pretty good built-in entertainment system. My only complaint about inflight entertainment is the lack of Bluetooth on the TV. You can only use the provided headsets or bring your own 2.5mm corded headphones. My daughter was snug as a bug; she slept for 7 hours of the 9-hour flight.

The amenity kit includes an eye mask, earplugs, lip balm, hand lotion, a toothbrush, toothpaste, compression socks, and a case. It’s yours to keep. I used the case to carefully pack and bring back Venetian glass on the return trip.

Dining in the Sky: Iberia Business Class Meal Review

I never have high expectations of airplane food, but the meals provided on our flight to Rome weren’t bad at all. For dinner, we were served a surprisingly tasty meal with grilled chicken, a side of creamy mashed potatoes, and a generous portion of steamed vegetables. The chicken was moist and flavorful, and the potatoes were smooth and satisfying. For breakfast, we were treated to fluffy pancakes topped with a fresh mix of seasonal fruit, which was a nice touch to start the day. Though not five-star restaurant quality, the meals were a pleasant surprise given the typical standards of airline cuisine.     The olive oil served on the plane was very good.  I asked the flight attendant if I could take a few with me, she gave me a box of 50.

Navigating Madrid’s Airport and Immigration

After landing, we got off the plane pretty quickly. I figured we would make a beeline straight to immigration in Madrid (MAD) before catching our connecting flight to Rome. I had researched the airport prior to arrival and knew the layout and exactly where we needed to go.

Understanding Terminal Transfers at MAD

You land in Terminal 4 or 4S, and if you’re taking a domestic (inter-EU) flight, you’ll have to get to Terminal 1-3. A train runs between 4 and 4S; for the other terminals, it’s a bus. We walked as fast as we could to beat everyone else on the flight. Turns out, it didn’t matter; this is what we were greeted with:

Surviving the Infamous Madrid Immigration Line Little did I know that the Madrid immigration line has been taking hours to get through since 1933! I thought I would be clever and get there first, but the line is usually 1-2 hours long. They do have an urgent connections line if your connection is under an hour, but I wouldn’t count on that service. Tips for Smooth Connections in Madrid You should book at least a 2-hour, preferably a 3-hour, connection in MAD. The airport is large and confusing. I watched videos on YouTube about the airport for hours during my research leading up to this trip.  I had a full page of notes on MAD, and it did come in handy. Many other people looked confused about where to go, but really, you just need to follow the signs.

Arriving in Rome: Transportation and First Impressions

After spending almost two hours in line, we finally made it through and headed straight to our next flight. It was just starting to board as we walked up. This flight was on a 20-year-old Airbus A320, but it wasn’t bad. The flight was only two and a half hours.

Taking the Leonardo Da Vinci Express

Once you get to the Rome (FCO) Airport, you have to take the Leonardo Da Vinci Express to the bus station inside the city; it’s a 32-minute train ride.

Understanding Rome’s Bus System

We took the bus from the airport to the hotel. I found the bus system confusing for the first two days, but then I figured it out. It’s not that hard—just expect the buses to be running late. Make sure you are on the correct side of the road!

Staying at the Comfort Hotel BolivarBooking with Citi Points for Maximum Value I booked five nights at the Comfort Hotel Bolivar for 25k points per night, or 12.5k Citi points. First Impressions: Finding the Hotel in a Hidden Alley When we arrived at the location on the map, I was greeted by this alleyway. I was a bit confused because I was expecting a larger hotel, but it turns out you have to walk down the alley, and it’s on the right. This is how most of the sidewalks are in Rome—bumpy cobblestone roads. Make sure you have a suitcase that can handle it. We had no problems with our Briggs & Riley bags. Room Size, Amenities, and Complimentary Breakfast The hotel has small rooms, but the staff was friendly, and the complimentary breakfast was very good. Here’s a photo of a queen/twin room with a maximum occupancy of three.

Transfer Citi Points to Choice Hotels at a 1:2 ratio if you have the Citi Premier® Card.

Exploring Rome: First Stop—Pizza!

After checking into the hotel, my daughter told me she was hungry and tired. I told her I could only fix one at a time, and she decided that food was more important than sleep. We put on our walking shoes and headed down the street to the end of the alley, where there was a pizzeria.

It wasn’t the local place that will knock your socks off; it was more of a tourist spot, but it was still good. The kid was all about the spaghetti. She didn’t last long before she passed out at the table from a long day of travel. I carried her back to the hotel and got to bed myself—we had a big day ahead!

The Best Free Breakfast Surprise The free breakfast was way better than I was expecting. I had planned to eat out, but after trying it the first day, we ate here every morning. They have an assortment of local pastries as well as all the items you would find at a Hyatt Place or Hyatt House. The hotel’s breakfast staff is always kept at two people, neither of whom speak English, but they were very nice—especially to my daughter.

Exploring Rome with “With Locals”

We used the “With Locals” website to book all our tours, all of them were excellent.  We booked a private tour of the Colosseum and the Ancient Port City of Ostia. This was the experience I was looking forward to the most in Rome—I wanted to see the Colosseum.

Walking to the Colosseum

We walked from the hotel to the Colosseum; it’s just over 1 km. While walking there, I saw a street artist doing watercolors. I really liked them but didn’t want to carry one around all day. We got to the Colosseum and met our tour guide, Francesca Romana (FrancesCaromana.guida@gmail.com).

The Colosseum Tour This is the view you’re greeted with when you walk up to the Colosseum as the sun rises. This is one of those times when it’s better to go with an expert—even if you can’t afford a private tour, try to find a public one. The guides can explain the history and answer any questions you might have. When we were walking around the outside of the Colosseum, my daughter noticed holes all over the exterior. I had no idea what caused them, but Francesca sure did. It turns out they’re from where metal ore was originally in the stone, and over time, people stole the metal from the marble. She also helped us breeze through security. Had we not had her, we would’ve waited for a while because the lines are long and abundant.

Inside the Colosseum

After walking around the exterior and showing us various features, she began the history lesson. We learned that certain entrances were reserved for VIPs, and that every gate was numbered. Romans would get a ticket, like at a modern sporting event, and they would have to enter the Colosseum through their assigned gate. The Colosseum also had bathroom facilities for its ancient guests. They were communal, with a shared butt sponge that sat in a bucket, but for 100 AD, they were pretty clean, I guess!

After walking up some rather steep stairs, we reached the sitting area. Wow, was this impressive! In ancient times, this area was covered with wood as a floor or flooded with water for naval battles. Elephants fought rhinos, humans fought lions, and man fought man—all with 50,000 spectators chanting for blood. Literally! Modern sporting events are not nearly as intense these days. The events that took place at the Colosseum define the meaning of “a spectacle,” that’s for sure.

Journey to the Ancient Port City of Ostia

When we finished at the Colosseum, Francesca took us to the train station, where she had pre-purchased our tickets to Ostia. It was an hour-long train ride, but it was nice. She had brought a gift of drawing supplies for my daughter, and that was a big hit. We talked about everything—economy, European politics, kids, hobbies—she was a pleasure to converse with. Once we arrived at the train station in Ostia, it was only a 10-minute walk to the Ancient Port City.

The History of Ostia This is the port city of Ostia. It was founded in 620 BC for the purpose of trade and was of vital importance to Rome as it was the closest port. In its heyday, it was home to an estimated 100,000 people. On top of the stone you see here, there would have been second stories built from wood. The wealthy lived on the ground level because they could have water, whereas the second story did not have running water.

Roman Innovation This was the bathhouse for the taxi drivers. You were not allowed to bring your horses into town, so they had taxis that would take you around. The floors are decorated with elaborate tilework displaying everything from animals to war. The tiles were not always just decorative; in the market, tiles denoted the business’s purpose. A fish importer would have a fish tile in front of his store—similar to a modern-day billboard or store sign.

I was absolutely amazed at how advanced the ancient Romans were. I had heard about many things, but seeing it all brought the words to life. Goods would be brought here from all around the world—Rome had a robust economy. The city featured an amphitheater, public bathhouses, taverns, inns, restaurants, and even firefighting services.

Ciao Francesca

After our tours of the Colosseum and Ostia, we were tired—we had walked far in 95°F+ heat. I decided to take Francesca out for lunch before we parted ways. She told me all about her family and gave me a bunch of tips for our time in Europe. We talked about things to do, and she looked over my itinerary. We got back to the hotel at 3, just enough time for a shower and to change before going on our next tour.

A Walking Photo Shoot in Trastevere

I may have been a bit ambitious with my bookings; I really packed in the activities. We met our next guide, Matteo (+39 329 741 3254), for a walking photo shoot in Trastevere, an older part of Rome. This area has a lot of American students who study here, so the neighborhood has a college-town vibe. It has a good energy, and the restaurants were fantastic.

A Small Mishap

Right when we met Matteo, my daughter fell and busted her nose. She was gushing blood from her schnoz, so our first stop was the pharmacy to get her patched up.

Matteo was great about the whole thing. The tour was only $75, but Matteo insisted on covering the cost of some medical supplies for my daughter, which was really thoughtful. My daughter adored him; she still talks about him six months later. I think his kindness and patience really made a lasting impression. Capturing the Charm of Trastevere After this little detour, we finally got to start the tour. We spent about an hour wandering the charming streets of Trastevere, taking photos at various spots, capturing both the beauty of the neighborhood and some candid moments. Then, we stopped at a local tavern for a beer (my daughter had a Lemon Fresca), which was just what we needed to recharge. Afterward, we continued taking photos.  We ended the tour at a pizzeria. Matteo is a professional photographer, so he made sure to get us lots of great shots, each one more beautiful than the last. He had an eye for capturing the best moments, and we were so pleased with how everything turned out. Here are just a few of my favorite shots from the day.

Day Trip to Capri The next day was jam-packed as well. I booked a day trip to Capri. We had to leave the hotel at 7 a.m., before breakfast, but the hotel staff gave us some fruit to go. We departed by bus to the train station, where we boarded Italo 9903 for Napoli Centrale at 8:30. I spent an extra $20 for first class, and it was worth it; there were far fewer people in the first-class cabin.

Unexpected Help from a Stranger

Once we got to Naples, we had to board a bus to get to the port. I was told by a bus employee that I could buy tickets on the bus, so I hopped on. Turns out you can’t buy them on the bus because the system was broken. Oh well, I thought it was only two stops. At the first stop, the first person to get on the bus was a cop. Hmm, this could be a problem. He asks the guy next to us for a ticket, and he shows it. Then he asks me. The cop speaks no English and looks pretty mad. I glance at the Italian guy next to me and give him the “please help me” look. He talks to the cop in Italian. The officer points us to the exit, and we get off. I ask the first person I see where I can buy a ticket, and she says, “Not close to here.” I had a look of defeat on my face; the ferry was leaving soon. By this time, the police officer had turned around and was working his way up the bus. The Italian guy turned to me and motioned for me to get back on the bus. I paused, thought about Italian jail, and figured he wasn’t trying to get me in trouble, so I got on. He opened his wallet and gave me a ticket. He really helped me out. I didn’t get his name and I don’t know who he was, but random Italian guy, you’re clutch!

Exploring Anacapri

We made it to the port; it’s right across the street from the bus stop. I had booked a ferry with SNAV and they had a queue that we hopped in, and 10 minutes later, we were on board and on our way to Capri! Again, I booked first class, and the only benefit was fewer people. No snacks were free, but the ones I bought were reasonably priced. The boat was smooth, and there wasn’t much rocking. We walked off the boat and took a right along the water. A five-minute walk away is the bus station to get to Capri or Anacapri; we picked Anacapri.

Anacapri on the Island of Capri Capri is known for lemons, lemonade, limoncello, lemon sorbet, lemon shoes, soaps, candles—you get the point. The kid wasted no time asking for lemon gelato. It was a bit tart for my taste, but she loved it.   We stopped at the stand right in front of the bus stop.

From there, we decided to walk around and explore the Anacapri. It’s filled with twisting alleyways and two-story homes on both sides, mostly white. After walking around for an hour, we grabbed pizza and then headed to the funicular.

Funicular, Chair Lift Anacapri. They wouldn’t let my six-year old ride by herself, so she got to sit in my lap. The chairs were pretty small. I took this photo on the ride. This view was only eclipsed by the view at the pinnacle of the mountain.

Once you get to the top, the plateau is not very large, but wow. The photo below is the stuff of dreams, you have to see this view in person.

La Capri Chic I wanted to get something special for my daughter while we were in Capri, and she had her eye on a pair of sandals from La Capri Chic. I decided to treat her to something memorable. The price was around 100 EUR for a pair, but what really stood out was the customization process—they made them right in front of her. It’s clear these guys are true artisans. The sandals have held up really well since then, and she still loves them. It was a great experience, and a perfect way to bring a piece of Capri home.

Upon exiting the shoe shop, I noticed a huge queue for the bus. I started asking around, and people had been waiting over 30 minutes. The cynic in me thinks the cabs facilitate this to drum up business at the end of the day. I knew we wouldn’t make our boat if we waited an hour, so I started asking if anyone wanted to split a cab to the port – it wasn’t cheap, running approximately 50-80 EUR. I found a couple who were interested, and we were off! Driving in an open-air taxi in Capri should be on everyone’s bucket list. It’s truly magical. The return trip was very smooth. We were tired when we got back to our hotel, but decided to visit the Trevi Fountain.

Although my daughter was exhausted, we persevered, visited the fountain, and then ate dinner.

We went to a Brazilian restaurant, and I got a really good piece of chicken. It was a tourist spot, but they had quality food. The puffy potato wedges were her favorite.

Vatican City Adventure

 The next day was our Vatican tour. I had a small amount of foresight and booked the time for later in the day. We slept until 8 AM, had breakfast, and went back to bed until noon. We got on a bus, and we were off to the Holy City.

Touring the Vatican

We accidentally went to the wrong entrance, so we had to make a two-mile walk around the exterior of the city. We arrived at our tour in the nick of time— it was just starting. The tour guide was decent, but my daughter couldn’t hear her. They gave her behind-the-ear headphones, and they wouldn’t stay on her head. I kept complaining and even asked for the ones the older folks had, but the guide said the over-the-head ones were only for hearing-impaired people and we couldn’t get them for her. Finally, an hour in, we gave up and walked off the tour. We were very lucky and got into both the Sistine Chapel and St. Peter’s Basilica. The lines were very short to enter the Basilica. The Vatican has so much to do and see, it deserves its own post. I’ll just leave you with a few photos, except of the Sistine Chapel, because photography is strictly prohibited there. The only people allowed to photograph there are The Nippon Television Network Corporation of Japan—they paid for restorations and got an exclusive license to photograph it.

	Laocoön and His Sons Depicts Laocoön and his sons, Antiphantes and Thymbraeus, being attacked by sea serpents. He warned the Trojans against bringing the Trojan Horse into the city, which angered Athena and Poseidon.
	Prebook the Pantheon After our visit to the Vatican, we decided to try our luck at the Pantheon but struck out. You cannot buy tickets at the building; they’re online only, like most things in Italy. The crowd outside was huge. I asked around, and everyone had gotten tickets online days or weeks before. I decided to get dinner and call it an early night.

A Relaxing Day in Rome

The next day, we were supposed to go to Florence at 7:30 a.m., but we had been so active that I wanted to just take it easy and not travel all day. We decided to walk around Rome and visit every landmark on the map we could. I think we ended up seeing 5 or 6 different places. I’ll stick to the main attractions, but there are small shops and history everywhere.

Roman Architecture All of the architecture is awesome. Just walk around or pick a random spot on the map, and you’ll find something interesting. We started northwest of the Colosseum at Piazza Venezia, a Victorian monument known as the Typewriter. This is the central hub of Rome, where several main roads meet. Its name comes from the Venetian Cardinal, Pietro Barbo. We skipped the Museum of Palazzo Venezia this time, but next time I want to see it.

Michelangelo’s Piazza del Campidoglio

Then we walked to Piazza del Campidoglio, a square designed by Michelangelo. In the square is the Capitoline Museum. While not as large as the Vatican Museum, it’s worth a stop. You can buy tickets at the door. The way the marble looks like fabric and folds, it’s easy to spot a master. The way the artists bring the subjects to life, making you feel the presence they command, is impressive.

The Emperor Commodus ruled Rome around the time of the museum’s construction.

Statue of Pope Urban VIII, from the 1630s, crafted by Gian Lorenzo Bernini. It took five years to complete.

From here, it was getting a bit late, and I still had to pack for departure the next day. I had seen a photo spot next to the watercolor artist we saw earlier in our trip, and I wanted to make it a two birds, one stone scenario. Mission accomplished!

Got my watercolors! 2 for 80 EUR. Unfortunately, these would cost me another 150 EUR the next day.

My daughter outside the Roman Forum.

Exploring the Roman Forum and Avoiding Scams in Rome

The Roman Forum was on our way back to the hotel, so we decided to check it out. You have to buy a ticket for more than just the Forum, and it was over 30 EUR per person. I decided not to go in, but we did walk around the outside. We walked the rest of the way home, and some guys tried the bracelet scam on us. Luckily, I’m familiar with it and didn’t even look at them when they tried to talk to me. I had my daughter watch a YouTube video about this scam, so she was wise and did not engage. Ignoring them seemed to be the best course of action. Since she was such a trooper, I got her gelato on the way home. If you’re looking for the good stuff, make sure the gelato is in a metal container with a lid. If it’s left uncovered and brightly colored, it’s artificial and not the best quality. Buy covered gelato!

Packing Tips and Tricks for Extended Trips

Next was the fun part — packing! Ok, just kidding, no one likes packing. Before moving locations, I always try to do all my laundry and pack everything up like I do at home prior to our trip. That means you have to find a laundromat, use a clothes cleaning service, or wash your dirty clothes in the sink. When I go on an extended trip, I bring an unscented conditioner bar, laundry detergent sheets that are made for washing clothes in a sink, and a stain stick. This saves time and money and avoids a trip to a laundromat, although sometimes I do that. I washed all our clothes the night before we left, and in the morning, I rolled up our clean and now dry clothes. From there, I put everything in Thule packing cubes. I’ve tried a dozen packing cubes, and I rate the Thule ones as the best.

Traveling From Rome to Venice on Air France

We grabbed a quick breakfast, walked around the hotel area, and then grabbed lunch. Our flight to Venice, the next stop in our vacation, was at 5:20 p.m. I wanted to get to the airport a full three hours early to check out the lounge. I booked business class through Air France for 12,000 points each. I decided to check out of the hotel at 1:00 p.m. since it would take an hour to get to the airport. I’m glad I did. We walked to the bus stop, took the bus to the train station, then took the Leonardo Express and were in the airport by 2:15 PM. As soon as I got off the train, I realized I had left the watercolors on the front desk of the hotel when I was checking out. They were in a small plastic bag, and I left them behind. I called the hotel, and they said if I emailed them the request, they might be able to mail it to me, but they couldn’t guarantee that. I did some math, checked the maps, and decided I had just enough time to make it back to the hotel and then return to the airport. If all went perfectly, I’d be back at the airport around 4:30 PM.

Bad Ideas

All did not go well. For starters, I had to buy new tickets, and the train I needed left while I was doing that. Ok, maybe I’ll get back at 4:45. I finally got back to the bus station at 3:15 PM. The bus takes 15 minutes to get to the hotel, so I walked to the buses… and nada. The bus I needed was 17 minutes away, if it was on time. I figured the only option was a cab.

Watch out for cab drivers in Rome.

The Taxi Hustle: Beware of Overpriced Rides There were three cab drivers in a line waiting for passengers. I ask the first one how much it would cost to go to the hotel and then the airport. He quoted 70 EUR. I said, “No thanks,” and moved on to the next guy. He says 100 EUR – pass. Next guy quotes 120 EUR. I go back to the first guy and tell him, “Let’s do it.” He then tells me, “No,” and points to this guy. I would love to tell you that I stood up on principle and didn’t pay, but then I wouldn’t have my watercolors, now, would I? So, I ended up paying over $200 for watercolors that originally cost $80.

We made it to the airport at 4:52, and without checked bags and with business tickets, we were through security by 4:58. The gate was close, so we had no trouble making it before boarding started, especially since out flight got delayed.  

Planning Ahead When Traveling with Kids I handwrote this itinerary, and this is the level of detail I include for each day. While you don’t have to be as detailed as I am, it definitely makes things much easier—especially when traveling with kids and no other adults. Having everything planned out in advance takes away most of the stress.

That’s it for today. Check out next week’s post about Venice and Murano!

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